- About the Author: Wayne has a 1974 2.7
911S engine in his 914-6, not a 911SC engine.
- Project 57:
Second-to-last paragraph, the torque value listed refers to the
small nut on top, not the large castellated nut on the bottom of
the ball joint.
On some of the later 911s, there is an overflow
outlet on the reservoir - clamp this off before pressurizing the
system otherwise you may create a mess when brake fluid leaks out.
The MSD upgrade is only applicable to 1965-83
911s. The MSD upgrade is not for 1984-89 Carreras.
- Back Cover: Photo mixup - engine photo
shows sheet metal installed upside-down.
3, the blue arrows refer to the emulsion tubes and air correction
- Project 17: Caption 1 refers to Photo 1
in Project 2. This should refer to Photo 1 in Project 21 instead.
- Project 15, Caption 4: Porsche tool P9191
is required for most cars after 1980. Tool P202 is used for most cars before 1980.
However, the 911SC used in this book has the early-style cams installed.
Check your cams before you purchase the tool.
- The acknowledgements section incorrectly refers to Tom
Sharpes 911 being on the cover. In a last minute cover switch, a 1988 3.3 Turbo was
placed on the cover.
- Project 12, Caption 4: Should read
"Once the head stud nuts are removed,"
- Page 221: Typo in word
- Typo in Pedal Cluster Rebuild, "bushings".
- Project 36: The drain/fill plug type on
the G50 transmission is a 10 millimeter hex-key plug, not a 19 millimeter cap screw plug
- Project 41: Incorrect Torque Specs: Using
a torque wrench, tighten up the bolts to 83 N-m (61 ft-lb) for cars with four M10 bolts on
the flanges, and 47 N-m (34 ft-lb) for cars with six M8 bolts on the flanges. For 1965-68
911s, tighten them up to 47 N-m if you have the Nadella axles (M10 bolts), or 43 N-m if
you have the early Loebro CV joints (M8 bolts).
- Project 77: An additional problem for
Targa owners is that Porsche has recently superceded the Targa roof seal to one used on
later cars. The problem is that these seals do not fit properly on the early cars,
and need to be trimmed to fit. The trimming process is somewhat difficult, so I
recommend that you keep your old seal for as long as possible before you decide to replace
it. One tip: the later style Targa side seals work better with the new
seal. I recommend replacing all three seals at the same time so that you can cut and
trim them to fit together.
- Project 62: Depending upon your year 911,
you may have to replace the entire droplink in order to replace the bushings.
- Project 57: Torque spec should be 250 N-m
(184 ft-lbs) not 45/33 as listed
- Project 39: The Weltmeister kit uses an
adapter plate and a new shift arm to increase the throw." Should be
- Project 35: Then using a small
screwdriver, adjust the bypass screw on the throttle housing.
read Then using a small nut driver, adjust the bypass screw
- Project 65: Caption 2: Add this sentence:
Porsche has since superceded the sound pads to a later-style that is lighter yet just as
effective at blocking sound. Dont be alarmed when your replacement weighs half as
much as your original one.
- Project 24: This paragraph: In a
pickup or points. Should now read: The white MSD wire is
connected to the points if your car has them (1965-77). Cars with magnetic pickups
use the magnetic pickup wire in the MSD unit.
Add this sentence to the paragraph at the top of page 75 that ends with potential
tachometer problems. Use tach adapter 8910 if your 911 uses points (1965-77)
or adapter 8920 if your 911 has a magnetic pickup (1978-83).
Since writing the book, MSD appears to have altered their product line slightly -
resulting in a slightly different installation procedure. Please consult MSD before
purchasing or installing their units. Specifically, I am told that the tach adapter
may or may not be 100% required, as I was originally told by MSD.
- Project 11: Caption 2: adjust the
nuts on the bottom until
should read adjust the nuts on the clutch cable
Carrera Chain Tensioner Upgrade - This is a relatively
straight-forward upgrade. However, there have been reports of some people who seem
to have made mistakes during this upgrade. As a result, the camshaft timing became
lost, and when the engine was started, the valves hit the pistons and became bent.
The result was a $4000 top-end rebuild.
Don't let this stop you from performing this upgrade
though - it is very useful, and very worthwhile for ensuring the longevity of your engine.
The key to remember here is to make sure that you do not let tension off of the
chain at any time. Keep the tension on the chain by making sure that the idler
sprockets are tight against the chain. If you are replacing your idler sprockets,
then keep tension on the chain by tying it tight. DO NOT LET THE CHAIN GO SLACK AT
ANY TIME. Following this simple rule should make this upgrade uneventful.
If the chain does happen to slacken up, then you need to
check your camshaft timing (documented in 101 Projects). A good check too before you
close up your chain tensioner housings is to make sure that when your engine is at TDC
(Top Dead Center), the dot or '930' mark on the two camshafts are facing upwards.
Spin the engine clockwise with the chain covers off just to make sure that there are no
problems with the chain. This is a good last-minute check to make sure that
everything is okay.